The thermal kur retreats in Austria

What it is

Europe’s prescribed cure, still paid for by health insurers

Roman, revived across the Habsburg and German spa towns from the eighteenth century.

The European thermal cure is the oldest continuously practised form of medical tourism there is, and the least understood outside the continent. In Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic, Hungary, France and Italy a *Kur* is a prescribed course — a physician examines you, writes a programme of bathing, drinking, inhalation and rest over two to three weeks, and in several of these countries some portion of it is reimbursed by the health system. That reimbursement is the most useful signal available about how the practice is regarded where it is actually practised.

What distinguishes it from a spa is the word "course". A single thermal bath is a pleasant afternoon. Balneotherapy is a defined number of exposures over a defined period, at a defined mineral composition and temperature, and the effect it claims is cumulative. Taking one and expecting the benefit is like taking one physiotherapy appointment.

The drinking cure — *Trinkkur* — is the half foreigners skip and Central Europeans consider the point. At Karlovy Vary you walk the colonnades with a porcelain cup and a spout, drinking specified springs at specified temperatures before specified meals, on a doctor’s schedule. It looks like a promenade. It is a prescription.