A temple standing on water in Bali
Indonesia · The town and the villages above it

Ubud

The most recognised retreat town on earth, and the one whose global fame is traceable to a single book.

2006
Eat, Pray, Love
2007
The Yoga Barn opens
Provincial
Traditional-health rules
Apr–Sep
Dry season

Why here

The case for Ubud

  • The concentration of experienced international teachers is genuinely unmatched. The Yoga Barn, open since 2007, runs more than twenty classes a day and anchors an economy that keeps twenty-year teachers in one place.
  • Underneath the pop-culture layer sits a genuinely old system: Balinese usada, a herbal and spiritual medicine recorded on lontar palm-leaf manuscripts, with a balian usada defined specifically as a healer literate in those texts.
  • Bali has begun to regulate traditional practice at provincial level, which is more than most of Southeast Asia has attempted — though the specific regulation number that circulates online could not be substantiated against an official text, so we do not cite one.
  • It is the easiest immersion to say yes to: warm, affordable, well connected, and forgiving if it is your first retreat.

Checkable, not adjectival

  • Provincial rules on Balinese traditional health create registration for practitioners; the regulation number widely quoted online could not be verified against an official text, so we do not repeat it.
  • Balinese usada medicine is recorded in lontar palm-leaf manuscripts; a balian usada is defined as a healer literate in those texts.
  • Eat, Pray, Love was published in 2006; the film released in 2010 and was shot partly in Ubud. Academic work identifies the book as the trigger for the town’s wellness economy.
  • The Yoga Barn opened in Ubud in 2007 and runs 20+ classes a day.
  • Since 14 February 2024 every foreign tourist pays a IDR 150,000 levy, once per stay, via the provincial Love Bali portal.
  • Nyepi, the Day of Silence, closes the whole island for 24 hours including the airport — the only airport in the world that shuts annually for a religious observance.
The honest caveat. Ubud’s wellness market is essentially unregulated at retail. Anyone can rent a shala and advertise as a healer, and the "traditional Balinese healer" sold in tour packages is very often a performance staged for tourists rather than a balian usada in the sense the lontar texts mean. The town is also now heavily congested. For every serious teacher there are fifty selling a certificate, a cacao ceremony and a sound bath in the same afternoon — and we sell none of the latter.
  • A temple on the water in central Bali
  • Backlit tropical leaves
  • Green hills in the interior
  • A held posture, practised indoors

When to come

The months that actually work

April to September is the dry season and the only period we quote for. Ubud sits inland at elevation in jungle and catches noticeably more rain than the coast; December to February is the wettest stretch, and mould is a genuine consideration in an open-sided hall over a month-long stay.

Book: April, May, June, July, August, September.

When to travel to each destination, by month
DestinationJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
UbudIndonesiaJan: we would talk you out of itFeb: we would talk you out of itMar: perfectly goodApr: book thisMay: book thisJun: book thisJul: book thisAug: book thisSep: book thisOct: perfectly goodNov: perfectly goodDec: we would talk you out of it
Book this
Perfectly good
We would talk you out of it

Average daytime high, °C

  1. 30J
  2. 30F
  3. 30M
  4. 31A
  5. 30M
  6. 29J
  7. 28J
  8. 28A
  9. 29S
  10. 30O
  11. 30N
  12. 30D

Ubud sits about 200 m up and is a degree or two cooler and a good deal wetter than the coast. The dry season, May to September, is the season.

Getting there

Flights, routings and the transfer

How the flight desk works →

Getting there

Ngurah Rai International DPS

Denpasar — Ubud is inland and uphill from it

Flights byTripClub
  • Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Bangkok

    Direct, hourly.

    2.5–4 hours
  • Australia

    Direct from every east-coast city.

    6 hours from Sydney
  • London & western Europe

    One stop through a Gulf or Asian hub.

    17–19 hours door to door
  • India & the Gulf

    Direct from Mumbai and Delhi seasonally; otherwise via Singapore or Kuala Lumpur.

    7–9 hours
Transfer
90 minutes to two hours to Ubud, and it can be three in the afternoon traffic through Denpasar. Included, and we schedule around the jam rather than pretending it is not there.
Worth knowing
Visa on arrival for most passports, payable in the hall, and the queue is long behind a wave of arrivals — the e-VOA applied for beforehand skips it and we send the link. Bali also levies a tourist entry fee, paid online before you land.

On request

What else there is in Ubud

Arranged on request and quoted separately. Each one carries when to take it — because a good day out on the wrong day of a treatment course is not a good day out, and no excursions list anywhere else will tell you that.

  • CultureHalf day

    A water purification at Tirta Empul

    The melukat ritual at the eleventh-century spring temple. Go at seven in the morning with a guide who can explain the sequence, or it is a queue and a photograph.

    Any time
  • NatureHalf day

    Tegallalang and the subak

    The rice terraces, and better, the thousand-year-old irrigation democracy that made them — UNESCO-listed as a cultural landscape and far more interesting than the swing.

    Before the programme
  • ActiveHalf day, very early

    Mount Batur before dawn

    A two-hour walk up an active volcano for sunrise over the caldera. A 02:00 start, and genuinely strenuous — never on a treatment day.

    After the programme
  • FoodHalf day

    A Balinese cooking morning

    Market first, then the base gede spice pastes that underlie everything. The best of the day trips and the one guests actually use at home.

    On a rest day
  • Culture2 hours

    Legong at Ubud Palace

    Every evening in the palace courtyard for a few hundred thousand rupiah. Touristic and still the real dance, performed by the village troupes in rotation.

    Any time

Add nights either side

The half of the trip a wellness agency cannot sell you. These are booked on the same invoice as the programme, with the flights routed to suit them.

  • The east coast — Amed or Sidemen3 nights · After

    The Bali the Ubud road no longer is: black-sand fishing villages, Agung above you, and nobody at all.

  • Nusa Penida & the islands2 nights · After

    A fast boat off the southeast corner for cliffs, manta rays and a very different landscape.

  • Borobudur & Yogyakarta3 nights · Before

    A short flight to Java for the greatest Buddhist monument in the world at sunrise, and Prambanan the same afternoon.

Practical

The unromantic part

Airport
Denpasar (DPS). Ubud is ninety minutes by road and can be two hours in traffic.
Visa
Visa on arrival for most passports, extendable once. Longer trainings need the extension arranged in advance.
Levy
IDR 150,000 tourist levy, paid once per stay through the official portal before you arrive.
Nyepi
Check the date. The island — and the airport — closes completely for 24 hours, and you may not leave your accommodation.
Level
All levels genuinely welcome. This is the destination we suggest when somebody has never done a retreat.

Questions we are actually asked

Is Balinese healing something I can book?
Not through us. A balian treats their own community, and the trade in "healer visits" has done real damage to that. If a property offers one from a menu, that is the version we would avoid.
Ubud is very commercial. Why list it at all?
Because the teaching at the top end is excellent, and pretending the destination does not exist helps nobody. We list a small number of schools out of several hundred and we are explicit about why.